The Medieval Gem which is Sarnano

...traipsing and tasting your way through Italy...

Another great story by Maryke Roberts on her recent gastronomic tour of Italy. 

Scroll down for the English Translation and enjoy! 

...traipsing and tasting your way through Italy...

When South African travel writer Maryke Roberts got the chance to visit Italy, it was not 

the charms of Rome, Venice or Milan that drew her, but the tantalising foods of Parma, 

Bologna and Norcia.

Indeed, by the time you have walked Mother Earth for forty odd years, you know what best tickles 

your taste buds. I include parmesan cheese (its pungency maybe just a tad too much for sensitive 

palates), truffle oil (reminiscent of forest nights, fungi and fertility) and Parma ham with pickled 

artichokes. It makes perfect sense then, having landed at the airport outside Rome that we would 

head straight to Bologna. 

Spaghetti- cause of comfort or contention?

Spaghetti, in my esteem, is comfort food. My mission; to find the best there is in Bologna. Alas, 

the lady at the tourism bureau in the centre of the city does not share our enthusiasm. Whilst her 

friends are lazing away on inviting bright beaches, she has to deal with the ill informed naivety of a 

foreigner’s search for the best Bolognaise sauce in the world. “There is no such thing as ‘spaghetti 

bolognaise’, she broadcasts for our attention, and everyone else within hearing distance. “It’s a myth 

we wish to vanquish, once and for all. Try our linguine or tagliatelli with a ragù sauce...” she advises 

most patiently. 

Rapped over the knuckles, my high falutin bolognaisan notions proving to be a mere rumour, we 

content ourselves with a buffet at Caffe Maxim on the Piazza della Mercanzia, just around the 

corner. The purchase of two drinks at the bar allows one to snack away all night long on the spread 

of delicacies: thinly sliced prosciutto wrapped around plump cantaloupe, chilled melon chunks sweet 

as honey with homemade coppa, rosa tomatoes wrapped in fragrant basil leaves, thick slices of 

mozzarella cheese mellowing the fruity melange- the list goes on.

Well fed now, with at least some of my romantic notions of Italian cuisine restored, we choose as 

our next taste bud sensation an excursion to the Gelato Museum in Carpigiani on the outskirts of the 

city. Sadly, it turns out they are closed for the holidays. Undeterred, we press our noses against the 

windows and take in with childish delight the ice-cream colours in the churns, the antique ice-cream 

tins and the splendid designs of the ice-cream scoops dating back to the fifties and sixties. 

A little sign indicates 1970, my bonny year of birth, as the year in which whipped cream served on 

top of ice-cream became popular, along with the machine that could beat it up twice as nice (and as 

fast)!

No mean truffle... 

We drive through little villages advertising culinary festivals of all sorts and it seems there’s no end 

to the ingenuity with pasta: gnocchi, pumpkin, sweet potato, not forgetting spaghetti, tagliatelli 

etcetera. 

A whole evening is whiled away in Loro Piceno at the Vino Cotto wine festival, where we develop a 

taste for cooked wines and an affinity for the locals who prepare and pour this potent pick-me-up. 

They let us in on the bit of colloquial culinary knowledge that no visit is complete without spending 

some time (and money) at Norcia, the place where truffles come from. We feel compelled to visit 

each little butchery and to discover the carnal treats on offer. We savour salami with truffle oil, 

chewy ciabatta dunked in olive oil, blue cheese and olives vying variedly for the attention of our 

oil factory and taste sensations. I buy a small jar of wild boar sauce and tiny bottle of truffle oil and 

hope to get them back home intact.

A beseeching e-mail from South Africa hints at not missing out on visiting Venice or Milan. The 

most delectable Maschere biscuits can be bought here and preferably enough tins of them to share 

back home. Parmesan cheese takes precedence over these sweet treats and we follow the road to 

the Musei del Parmigiano Reggiano which is one of four of the Musei del Cibo group; its aim to pay 

tribute to the pioneers whose culinary proficiency popularised visits by passionate food lovers to the 

different regions. The other three museums celebrate tomatoes, Parma ham and salami. 

Culinary highlights

We spend many a day visiting little street cafes in the area where we eat bowls of tagliatelli ragù, 

which believe it or not (but don’t tell the Italians) tastes just like our adopted bolognaise sauce back 

home in South Africa! We devour chunks of grated parmesan cheese on our pasta and sometimes 

pop in at street markets to buy scrumptious ingredients for our evening meals.

Good news travels fast and when we hear of a wonderful guest house with a South African as part 

owner in Gualdo di Macerata in Le Marche, Cancello Est in Via Borga, we make our way there. At

their invitation we take over their kitchen from time to time trying our hand at preparing the robust fare of the region. Sharing our gastronomic delights brought no complaints! 

Sure, we did do a little non-food related sightseeing as well. We saw the Black Madonna at the 

Loreto Cathedral and took a spin to the Ferrari museum in Modena. But mostly, we just ate and 

had our heavenly fill of exquisite foods, way more colourful and sensual than we anticipated! We’ll 

be back soon to follow the trail of food through all the other villages inviting our naive but ardent 

search for sublime Italian gastronomy. Viva Italia!

Quick facts for the Foodies

• Tours to the local Parmesan Farms in and around Parma, Modena and Reggio Emilia can be done in your own time. The full name if this cheese is Parmagiano Reggiano. Some 270 000 cows are milked twice a day to make proper Parmesan cheese. A complete list of farms with directions is available at www.parmigiano-reggiano.it

• Present your airline ticket at any of the Musei del Cibo to get a discount. More info is available at www.musiedelcibo.it

• Pre-book to visit the Gelato Museum in Carpigiano, via Emilia in Bologna to avoid disappointment. Bookings at info@fondazionecarpigiani.it

• In Bologna one can do a one day food and wine tour. The short amble through the city includes a visit to the food markets and a free copy of a book with traditional recipes. To confirm tour dates go to www.bolognawelcome.it or ask for more information at the tourism bureau.

Spring Flowers Coming into their Glory

Tulips welcoming Spring ( and some fantastic warm weather in Gualdo). After such a long winter the colours really give a lift to the soul with promises of summer to come.

Spring time is one of Marches' best kept secrets!

Uncovering Residents of Yesteryear

More discoveries in the Cantina - this one reveals more of the previous owners of Cancello Est.

We think he is quite a dapper man and looks very smart in this picture.

His epitaph reads:

Husband and incomparable father who in 28 beautiful years of teaching at the elementary school placed in many precious young people seeds of knowledge and goodness. 

We are going to frame this to share the history of Cancello Est with guests and hopefully find more about the families who lived here over the centuries.

Trash or Treasure and a Coincidence

More gifts from the Cantina.  This plate may be rubbish,  but does remind us of one of our all-time favourite movies "Tea with Mussolini". That coincidence I am sure will elevate it to treasure.

In other cities such as Florence, most or all of their towers have been brought down due to wars, catastrophes, or urban renewal, San Gimignano has managed to conserve fourteen towers of varying heights, for which it is known internationally. It is now a UNESCO Heritage site 




Some of the towers are:

• Torre Grossa, (1311) 54 metres
• Torre della Rognosa, 51 metres
• Torre Cugnanesi
• Torre del Diabolo
• Torri degli Ardinghelli
• Torri dei Salvucci
• Torre Chigi, (1280)
• Torre Pettini

Discovery in the Cantina

When clearing out the Cantina today we came across a box full of broken china. Not sure if its treasure or trash but really impressed with this little gem. 

It looks hand painted, and is a good interpretation of the Square in Ascoli Piceno which is shown in the second picture.  

The inscription says "50th Anniversary of the invalids of the war - 1917- 1967. Only 46 years old and 44 years to go before it becomes an Antique! 

Ascoli is  one of out favourite destination and only about 45 minutes from Cancello Est. 

The central historical part of the city is built in marble called travertino, a grey-hued stone extracted from the surrounding mountains. Its central Renaissance square, Piazza del Popolo ("Square of the People") is considered one of the most beautiful in Italy. According to traditional accounts, Ascoli Piceno was home to more than two hundred towers in the Middle Ages: today some fifty can still be seen.

Environmental Improvements Approved by the Mayor

Winter Wonderland from the Honeymoon Suite

The changing seasons of Gualdo!

Not to be put off by the snow, we ventured on foot to the village to keep our appointment with the Mayor and the planning committee.

It turned out to be a very fruitful meeting and as they were so impressed with the improvements to Cancello Est, they listened carefully to our plans and gave us the go ahead on all our requests.

Loo with a view! 

Permission was grated to install solar panels on the roof for heating and electricity. This means we can heat the pool in winter which will be an added bonus for the guests.


Secondly, they gave full approval for  the grey water recycling system. This will give us a good environmental solution for garden plants and our toilet systems which will all run on collected rain water (and snow!).

In addition, permission was grated for  the south facing sun-deck (or sun-set deck). This will really enhance the pool area and provide a great place for guests to enjoy the magnificent views of the Sibillini National Park.

Gualdo Village Square in the Snow 

Next on the list is the beehives for our own honey (Miele di Cancello Est) and the Worm Farm. We can use food waste for the benefit of the plants and organic veggies.

Our Archtect, Piero, thinks that we will be the only Boutique Hotel in an historic centre of Marche, that is totally environmentally self-sufficient.  Lets wait and see and hope that other establishments follow suit and help us preserve this beautiful area for future generations.

Let it Snow, let it Snow, let it Snow

A Peak Through the Bridal Suite Window

Another Discovery at Cancello Est

We discovered this ornate brick today - an eight-pointed star which has been carved onto the face of a totally square brick.  Adriana, the Fresco expert says it dates from the 14th or 15th century and believes it was part of the original eastern gate of the village of Gualdo. 

According to christianity, the eight-pointed star is the Star of Redemption or Regeneration and represents baptism. Eight is traditionally the number of regeneration, and thus many baptismal fonts have an octagonal base. 

Providing added significance is the assumption that Jesus was circumcised and named when he was eight days old (the traditional Jewish practice); baptism is seen as the New Testament equivalent of circumcision.

Finally, eight persons were saved in Noah's ark, which is another Old Testament parallel of baptism.

Well, we feel it is quite apt as there is certainly a lot of regeneration going on at Cancello Est. 
If anyone can throw any more light on this we would really appreciate the feedback. We have forwarded to the local historical offices for more information. 

It Feels like Spring has Sprung and Guest Lounge Underway

It feels like Spring has arrived in Gualdo. Trees are and in full bud, Catkins and blowing in the breeze and beautiful blue skies over the Sibillini Mountains.

The guest lounge on 2nd floor has just had a new floor and the walls have been stripped to reveal beautiful honey coloured stone. The pictures of the views are taken from this room and are spectacular.

Beams, refurbished stone and more recycled original floor tiles will complete the look. Moving in at Easter is  becoming more of a reality every day.

Bridal Suite Fresco - Stage one

Don't worry - the cracks and the rogue plaster will disappear during stage two  As a bridal suite we think this is starting to become quite a special place to wake up on the first day of your honeymoon!

Say it with flowers - a message from the Fresci

An excerpt from the Bridal Suite Fresco - next stage is cleaning, touching up and sealing - dated to 1780 - amazing

We are Floored for Christmas!

 Our builders have completed the top floor floors on Cancello Est.  It has been an interesting engineering project to ensure that the property is stable and now earthquake proof.

A metal frame was secured to all the outer walls and "pinned" through the meter thick walls. Then a metal grid floor was welded on covering the entire floor space in every room.  Apparently, this structure will hold everything tight and secure and reinforce the floors and walls. I guess the old lady is now well corseted and all her featured tightly knitted together, keeping her firm and secure against anything Mother Nature may throw at her in the future!

 Next stage is the underfloor heating and the finish touch - the 16th Century honey coloured tiles.

Marche - Land of Magic

Craftsman versus Artist

They say that a man who works with his hands is a craftsman. I disagree. When you see the painstaking renovation of Cancello Est I think we are surrounded by artists.

This picture shows how our wonderful builders have recreated the roof and recycled the 17th Century tiles whilst hiding the 21st Century ones that will keep our guests warm and dry. Sadly residents won't see this detail as its three storeys above their heads.  Its a shame as it looks good enough to eat!

The Old Lady Reveals More Secrets

 As we peel back the layers of nearly 400 years of DIY and bad restoration Cancello Est continues to surprise us.  Now the roof structure has been completed the builders are busy removing walls and floors on the top floor which will eventually provide us with four luxury rooms all en-suite. These suites will have spectacular views of the Sibillini Mountains, the Grand Sasso and the National Park.

The floors, over the years had become a bit of a Mille Feuille with all the various layers added over the centuries. Sixty centimetres in total.

The first layer that was removed is 120 year old Terracotta floor tiles which are a rich red in colour and these will be recycled for the "cantina" area which will become the guest lounge, Bar, Dining Room and Cooking School.

The next layer was of course cement and underneath the builders discovered a deep layer at least 50 centimetres of compacted river sand and and earth.


The final reveal was the original 17th Century floor tiles that miraculously have been beautifully preserved against the ravages of time. They are  the most beautiful honey colour which is typical of the Marche region.

Now the walls are floors are removed the rebuilding begins with new beams, insulation, underfloor heating and of course the fully restored recycled floor tiles. Can't wait to see the finished floors  which the builders say should be before Christmas.

Its hard to comprehend that this magnificent building was constructed during the coronation of Charles I and has survived wars, famine and earthquakes.

Let it Snow,Let It Snow, Let it Snow

Could be famous last words - but we have had our first snow falls on the mountains and it all looks very festive and postcard Christmassy.  Gualdo is looking particularly festive and have put all the Christmas lights up in the historic area of town - we even have a set of lights outside Cancello Est.

Christmas Cake made, pickles done, Mince Pies in the oven - just need to add friends and family for the perfect Christmas

Where Eagles Dare!

Wonderful sight from Cancello Est this morning - a pair of eagles were swopping over the new roof and enjoying the winter sun.

It's remarkable that there is such incredible wildlife so close to us. Probably due to the fact that we overlook the Sibillini National Park and the wondrous snow capped peaks of the mountains.

Copper Guttering added to Complete the Roof

The finishing touches to the roof refurbishment is the addition of wonderful copper gutters that will drain the rainwater into tanks so that in can be recycled for garden use and to fill the pool.

Looks pretty amazing just hope we don't have to polish it every week !

Crowning Glory Completed

Now the roof has been completed (with an extra chimney) the builders have started to renovate the inside of Cancello Est.

This is the first bedroom to go under the hammer and we are amazed at how much larger the rooms look with the walls removed and the windows lengthened to create french doors.

This suite will have great uninterrupted views to the Grand Sasso from the front and from the other window all the way to the sea.

Please note that the builders lunch table is not indicative of future furnishings!!!!